The Oberbaumbrücke
There are more bridges in Berlin than in Venice and the most striking of them all is the Oberbaumbrücke. Its double-decker structure serves pedestrians, road traffic and the U-Bahn crossing the river Spree and links the city districts of Friedrichshain and Kreuzberg.
The original wooden version, built in the early 1700s, is said to have been blocked at night by a fortified tree trunk in an effort to prevent smuggling. Baum is the German word for tree and the bridge had earned itself a name.
It was upgraded to stone in 1896, with the U-Bahn track added a few years later. As the city grew, so did the importance of the crossing but that ended abruptly during the last weeks of World War II when the German army destroyed it in an attempt to hold off the invading Russians.
They found a way over presumably and were soon joined by the western allies to form an occupying force in Berlin. Preferring their own ideals, whilst knowing most of the population under their control thought otherwise, eventually induced them to build a Wall. This section of the river Spree formed part of the border between the American and Soviet sectors making the Oberbaumbrücke a convenient checkpoint. Only West Berliners on foot were allowed to cross. East Berlin territory extended across the river to the Kreuzberg bank, an important consideration for any would be aqua-escapee. You hadn't made it to West Berlin until you were out of the river.
Nearby runs the longest section of the Wall still standing. The 1.3km stretch known as The East Side Gallery is a street art exhibition, displaying the work of artists who were invited to paint murals on the Wall's remnants. The themes reflect the atmosphere of change that was prevalent in Berlin when the Wall fell. It's becoming a bit run down these days, sadly. Graffiti spoils most of the beautiful artwork and parts of it have already been removed to make way for...what else?...luxury apartments. I have a feeling it won't be around for much longer so visit it while you can.
Many of the city's landmarks, once painful reminders of division, have become symbols of unity since the Wall came down. A restored Oberbaumbrücke was reopened on the fifth anniversary of the border opening. Today Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg is a single borough with the bridge featuring on its coat of arms. Friendly relations between residents on opposite sides of the river are consolidated with the annual water fight (supplemented by a rotten vegetable or two) that starts in the middle of the bridge and ends when one team is pushed back to their own side. Friedrichshain has yet to lose.
An installation created by the artist Thorsten Goldberg became part of the Oberbaumbrücke in 1997. A paper-scissors-stone contest is used to resolve disputes the world over. Depicting the seemingly random decisions made by opposing political regimes during the Cold War, a pair of neon lit hands duel with each other throughout the night from opposite sides of the river. There is never a winner, only an ever incrementing best of.
The bridge's characteristic architecture, reminiscent of an old city gate, makes it an appealing photographic subject. Two central, medieval style turrets, built with distinctive red brick and crowned with a Bundesadler, the emblem of Federal Germany, and the Berlin Bear standing proudly erect, could have been the toll collector’s booths.
There are plenty vantage points to shoot the bridge from different perspectives. The East Side Gallery begins on the corner of Mühlenstraße and Warschauer Straße so it’s possible to compose a scene with the Wall in the foreground and the bridge behind it. Waiting for a bright yellow U-Bahn to cross adds an extra element of interest - one with a nice contrast against the blue sky if you’re lucky. Or patient.
The riverside path provides an opportunity for the well-worn, but nevertheless classic, reflection shot, which can be further improved by getting onto the river itself. With careful framing from the east side of the bridge, you can position the TV Tower precisely between the two central turrets.
And I have a secret tip. Look for a street called Brommystraße about a kilometre west of the bridge. At the end of this side street is a viewing platform jutting out over the river that not many people know about. Ideally you'll need at least a 300mm telephoto lens to make the most of the view of the bridge but there's a good chance you'll have the spot to yourself for a perfect sunrise photo.
