The Reichstag

The Reichstag.

If there’s one building in Berlin that personifies its history, it can only be the Reichstag. Since it opened in 1894, the seat of the German parliament has been burned, bombed, restored, abandoned, gutted and re-restored.

Kaiser Wilhelm I was the Emperor of Germany when construction began in 1884. He objected to the design because it meant the new building would be bigger than his own city castle so perhaps it was fortunate for him that he died before it was finished.

His grandson Kaiser Wilhelm II was similarly antiquated and wouldn’t allow the slogan 'Dem Deutschen Volke' to be inscribed over the entrance. Far too democratic. That is, until you need your citizen’s support in a war effort.

Dem Deutschen Volke
For the German people.

By November 9th 1918, the war was lost, the Kaiser had abdicated, the inscription was in place and Germany was declared a republic by socialist politician Philipp Heinrich Scheidemann from one of the Reichstag’s balconies.

During The Weimar Republic the Reichstag continued as the seat of The Bundestag until it was burned down in an arson attack on 27th February 1933. It has never been proved but Hitler, who was appointed (not elected) Chancellor a month earlier, blamed the communists and used the fire as pretext for the Reichstag Fire Decree and The Enabling Act, effectively wiping out any political opposition and making him a dictator.

The building was destroyed during the war and only restored during the early 1960s in a much simplified version, without the famous cupola. In fact there was no use for it now that Germany was divided; the West had moved their seat of government to Bonn and the DDR constructed the Palast der Republik - on the site of the Kaiser’s now eradicated castle.

Apart from the occasional use as an exhibition center, the Reichstag was as good as abandoned, the Berlin Wall passing just a few meters behind it.

The path of the Berlin Wall running behind the Reichstag.
Shot from an eastern window, the darker concrete slabs mark the location of the Berlin Wall showing how close to the Reichstag it ran.

Germany was officially reunited on 3rd October 1990 in a ceremony in front of the Reichstag but when parliament assembled there the next day, it was only a symbolic act. It wasn’t until the following summer that The Bundestag voted to return permanently to Berlin.

Housing parliament in the Reichstag once again was possible because the Nazi party never used it so the location wasn't considered to be contaminated with national socialism. Firstly however, some serious rebuilding was required.

British architect Norman Foster led the restoration. Maintaining some of the building's authenticity was extremely important to him. Although a new dome wasn't included in his initial design, he was determined to preserve some of the walls covered in graffiti written by Russian soldiers while they were in occupation. Not everyone supported this idea but he prevailed. Offensive examples were removed as a compromise.

Graffiti written by Russian soldiers.
Graffiti written by Russian soldiers.

Work was completed in 1999 and thankfully the Reichstagskuppel is back. The huge glass dome offers a 360° panoramic view of Berlin but its purpose goes far beyond that of a mere window. A mirrored cone running down the center stores heat and projects natural daylight into the debating chamber below. An environmentally friendly touch that also allows visitors to look down on members of The Bundestag in session, firmly demonstrating the government’s commitment to transparency.

Inside the Reichstag dome.
Inside The Reichstag's cupola.

The Reichstag is in an ideal location for photography. The main entrance faces directly west so the front facade is beautifully lit during the golden hour when clouds are sparse. A large field immediately in front of the building allows plenty of space to pick your spot. It’s possible to be far enough away and still get an unobstructed view of the whole building through a 50mm lens, without needing to angle the camera upwards - usually necessary when photographing large buildings unless you have a tilt-shift lens. So frame your shot right and it’ll be completely free of distortion.

You could also use the field as a canvas to create some foreground interest. During the summer there’ll be a lot of sunbathers dotted around but if it’s empty you could enlist the help of some willing models to compose a scene. A line of cyclists crossing the frame or a couple kissing for example.

On the roof of The Reichstag.
On the roof of The Reichstag.

And that’s just the outside. The inside of the dome is an engaging architectural subject. All sorts of compositional choices are available. Leading lines and reflections surround you. Then there’s the view from the rooftop terrace.

I’d advise you not to go with anyone who doesn’t share your interest for photography. As fascinating a place the Reichstag is to visit, by the time you’ve got a fraction of the shots you want, they’ll have long since been wanting to leave.

The Reichstag in the blue hour.

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