Siegessäule
The first incarnation of Germany as the republic we know today, was established when the German Empire collapsed at the end of the First World War. Prior to the empire, all that existed was a loose confederation of German speaking states which had been formed after the Napoleonic Wars by the Congress Of Vienna in 1815.
The Kingdom Of Prussia and The Austrian Empire were the dominant powers in the confederation. Both claimed to speak for everyone else and both maintained they could best protect German interests abroad. A situation that would inevitably end badly for one of them.
Austria was the largest and strongest state but Prussia's strength and influence was catching up by the time Otto von Bismarck was appointed their Prime Minister in 1862. He was a master of political manipulation and not afraid of using his military might to achieve his primary ambition - a unified German nation. Nine years and three unification wars later he accomplished that feat, dumping Austria along the way.
Things began to heat up under Bismarck in 1864 when the Danish king declared an independent duchy on the border of the German Confederation to be part of his kingdom. In response, a combined Austrian and Prussian offensive made short work of the Danes and they took control of the region themselves.
That one triumph was enough for a Victory Column, or Siegessäule, to be commissioned. Monuments to military successes tend to be grand affairs and as such take several years to build, allowing plenty of time for more wars. During the nine years it took to finish the Siegessäle, Prussia instigated another two.
Just two years after fighting together, relationships between the main powers had disintegrated and they fought each other for control of the German states. This time Bismarck used Italy as his pawn. He signed an alliance with the fledgling nation and encouraged them to mobilize troops, knowing Austria would be provoked.
At the same time he was using the nationalist issue to forge political unrest within the confederation. Austria, still a European superpower in its own right, was resistant to a unified Germany. Eventually they declared war, believing they'd have support from the majority of member states. They didn't have enough. Prussia's decisive victory established a new North German Confederation which excluded Austria and its allies.
France was the next country to be lured into war as a result of Bismarck's political guile. They were becoming more and more concerned with Prussia's growing dominance in Europe. Cast as aggressors trying to stir up Austrian revenge, they were given the impression that states unhappy under Prussian control would join their cause. Not so. The French ended up fighting Prussia alone and also succumbed.
Victory over France ended all internal and external resistance to a unified nation. The German Empire was officially created on 18th January 1871 and the King of Prussia, Wilhelm I, declared Emperor.
The completed Siegessäule had now acquired far more significance - a symbol of Prussian victories in three Unification Wars and the German Empire's first national monument. Something extra was called for. The column was augmented with an 8m high, 35 tonne, golden statue of Victoria, the goddess of victory. Suitably satisfied, The Kaiser unveiled the monument on 2nd September 1873.
Standing 67m tall, the Siegessaüle towers over Großer Stern, a huge intersection of five major routes through the city centre and plumb in the middle of Straße des 17. Juni. In 1939 the whole structure was relocated here from its original site in front of the Reichstag. Moving something so big such a short distance might seem a bit odd but the Nazi government had their own grandiose plans to redesign Berlin and the Siegessaüle was in the way.
By some miracle it saw out the Second World War with barely a scratch. As one of the occupying powers, France understandably petitioned for the column to be pulled down but the other allies refused the request.
Today it's a focal point for rallies, demonstrations, parades, festivals, sports events and just about any other kind of party or gathering. The Siegessaüle has evolved from a symbol of militarism and nationalism to one of openness and celebration.
The entire column can be seen from a long way off in several directions: North East, North West and directly from the South, East and West, making it a fortuitous location for photographers wanting a full length shot. At any time of the day you're able to choose the best shooting position relative to the sun. During sunset for example, you can capture the statue bathed in golden hour light from the West, or as a silhouette from the East.
Obviously you'll use your camera in portrait orientation if you want the column to fill the frame. But try backtracking 50 metres or so and switching to landscape for a symmetrical scene with the road acting as a double leading line toward the monument. The wide strip running through the middle is safe enough to shoot from as long as you're careful.
I have my own ongoing project here. I'm trying to get a photo with the flow of traffic perfectly mirrored on either side of the column. I've come close a few times but haven't quite nailed it yet. One day I'll ask the police to close the road so I can orchestrate my own traffic patterns. I'm sure they'll accommodate me.
A closeup of 'Golden Lizzy' is another favourite photo. She looks her best against a backdrop of perfect blue sky, but if there are no clouds you'll need to be aware of the sun's position and keep an eye on the specular highlights. They can easily become overwhelming on such a large, shiny surface.
And if you you're not weighed down with too much photography gear, be sure to climb the 285 steps to the viewing platform. Berlin looks great from up there.
